A GolfWRX member sent me a message about pulling shafts after viewing the post on replacing a Sonartec shaft, located at https://thepowerfade.wordpress.com/2010/10/17/how-i-do-club-repair-and-you-can-too/. Check out the interaction below:


Sent 13 January 2011 – 12:36 PM
Hey man. A few quick questions for ya. I live in Pittsburgh PA and since we have 7 inches of snow, there will be no more golf. Time for some DIY golf.

I have some limited experience with golf DIY. I was able to refinish and regroove 2 wedges a few months ago. I did the paintfill and everything.

I’m looking to refinish a set of 695cbs that I have. My questions come in here. The 2 wedges that I did before, I wasn’t worried about keeping the shafts as they were not wedges I planned on playing. So I just heated the s*** out of the shaft and pulled it out. Since these are a set of irons I plan on playing with, I want to take the heads off as carefully as possible.

What is the best way to pull iron shafts that I plan on playing with? They are steel. I assume that I will need new ferrules as well. Can you tell me that best and cheapest place you know to buy new ferrules? Really appreciate the help and great write up. If you have a writeup to link me to or if you have some step-by-step instructions, I would really appreciate it. Thx.

Sent 13 January 2011 – 01:45 PM
Sounds like a pretty easy job. Graphite is a lot harder to deal with.

Since you “heated the s***” out of the two wedges, I assume you already have a blow torch. I would make sure it’s a propane torch, as other types (acetylene, butane, for example) can get too hot and damage your club. I use a Bernz-O-Matic propane torch (about $20 at Home Depot).

Your ferrules will be irreparably damaged, yes. Before you remove the shaft, hit them with the torch for about 2 seconds so they melt a little bit, then let them cool for about 20 seconds and cut them off with a box cutter.

Once the ferrule is off, you don’t need any special equipment to take off an iron shaft (this is where the difference between graphite and steel is really seen). What I do is (1) put a heat-resistant glove on my left hand (I’m right-handed), (2) start the torch, (3) pick up the club in my left hand (held far enough away from the head that I don’t burn my glove), (4) heat the hosel, (5) put the torch down and turn it off, (6) switch hands so that I now hold the (unheated part of the) shaft in my right hand, (7) grip the head with my gloved left hand, and (8) give the club head a twist to see if the head has come loose. I usually start with about 25 seconds or so of heat, then try to twist, then 10s more of heat, then twist, then 10s, then twist, and so on until the epoxy bond breaks. MAKE SURE that you don’t just heat the hosel in one spot–continually move up and down the hosel and around the hosel (face side, crown side, sole side, etc.) so that you’re not focusing in one spot. This can cause overheating of the one spot, leaving marks and, possibly, damage to your club. Plus, it takes a lot longer. Heat loosens the epoxy bond. If you’re staying in one spot with the heat, it has to travel all the way around the shaft to get to the other side. That means that one side will be hotter than the other side. If you circulate around the hosel with the torch, the heat will be even all the way around, so you won’t have any hot spots, and it’ll go faster. As with all things, if you take your time, you should be OK.

As for ferrules, sorry I can’t help much. There are some threads on GolfWRX.com/forums if you want “custom” ferrules (where you can buy custom colors) and I know there are offerings available online. Otherwise, it’s usually best just to buy a pack at Golfsmith or on golfsmith.com (if you don’t have a golfsmith near you). Always make sure you get the right ones for your shaft diameter.

If you need any more help (how to get the ferrule on the shaft, how to clean out the hosel, etc.) let me know. I’m happy to help.

Sent 13 January 2011 – 02:03 PM
Thx for the reply. I really appreciate it.

I have Sensicore high launch shafts in my irons. Do you know how I would tell what diameter the shaft is and what diameter ferrules I would need?

Sent 13 January 2011 – 02:14 PM

Re the “diameter,” Titleist should have material online somewhere about the hosel bore for 695cbs. If you’d rather not waste your time, you can actually call Golfsmith–they have a book where they can look it up. Usually irons are .355, but you need to confirm before buying. Also, don’t do like my friend did and mix up .355 with .335.

Let me know how it goes or if you have more questions.

Sent 13 January 2011 – 02:43 PM
HAHA. Will do. Thx. I will call Golfsmith and find out. My time frame is really whenever I get home from work. I dont have anything to do now that there’s snow on the ground so I’ll be messing around with it at night. I’ll take some pics and if you want to use them great. I’ll shoot you a message if I have any other questions.

Thx again.

Stamping A Wedge

January 17, 2011

Here at the PF, we try to share both our accomplishments and failures with the community in hopes that we can help someone out there learn from both our successes and out mistakes. With that backdrop in mind, here is my description of stamping my own wedges.

I followed the directions listed at the links in our prior post on stamping/paint filling clubs, located at https://thepowerfade.wordpress.com/2010/12/18/great-link-to-stamppaint-fill-your-irons/.

I trolled eBay for the cheapest stamp set I could find and ended up with one that was $16 shipped. If you go to buy your own stamp set, make sure you check with the sellers to ensure that your stamps can be used on steel. Many of the stamps on eBay are designed for jewelry applications, which involve MUCH softer metals (gold, silver, etc.).

The photo below shows the supplies I needed, including:

1. A work bench of some type (could be just a table)
2. A hammer
3. A stamp set
4. Masking tape
5. Safety glasses (yes, potential shards of hardened steel breaking off and flying is a hazard for your eyes)
6. A golf club to be stamped (duh)
7. A test piece
8. Ibuprofen for when you smash your fingers (just kidding….kind of)

Here is a look at my stamp set. You can also see the test piece with markings in it from where I tested my stamp set on it.

My goal in this first stamping project was to stamp the number “53” on the bottom of my gap wedge, because I regularly grab it instead of the lob wedge or vice versa–they look the same when in the bag. Thus, I clamped the club in by the neck….but….

That was a bad idea. We’ll get to it later on in the post, but, suffice to say, if you’re clamping your work piece, do not try to clamp it on a rounded portion. Hitting the club head with a hammer will cause it to move (duh). This project was a bit difficult because I wanted to stamp the sole of the club. However, I should’ve known this setup wouldn’t work out.

The correct setup is below. Because the blade is actually clamped, the club will not move.

I taped the bottom of the club…

Then I held the stamp and hit it with the hammer. The following is the result.

A couple of things I learned from this. As you can see below in the red oval, the bottom of the “3” is moving down the club. This was a result of the bad clamping, which I discussed above. With each hammer strike, the club moved a little. Once I reclamped it on the blade, it was OK, and I was able to get the deep 3 located above the red oval.

A second learning experience was with the 5. Although you don’t need to swing the hammer very hard, you do need to strike the stamp about 15-20 times to get a nice deep stamping (at least on these wedges–it may be different with different metals). With that in mind, you need to be darn sure that the stamp itself doesn’t move. So, what I had to learn how to do was to hold down the stamp in contact with the club head, rather than simply holding it over the club head. In other words, I needed to actually be pushing the stamp into the club head to hold it in the exact place. Otherwise, it’ll move a bit, as you can see in the yellow circle.

But, with renewed enthusiasm, I tried it on the lob wedge, stamping with my initial “J.” I think it looks pretty good, despite a few errors.

One last thing I learned from the experience: don’t just try your technique on a test piece; perfect it on the test piece. Otherwise, you’ll end up with some errors. None of them bother me that much (because I’m just not that serious), but I know some of you out there (LG?) would be extremely bothered by an error on the club.

All in all, it’s not difficult, but it requires patience and absolute accuracy.

LG Painting a club: new tips

December 23, 2010

Following JK’s lead, I decided to paint my clubs.  Here are the before and after shots, as well as a description of my shortcomings and new tips.

Problems I encountered:

1) White is REALLY hard to get right.  Be sure you’re committed to taking the time to do this process correctly if you’re going to go with white.  The results (particularly the driver) are pretty amazing when it works though.

2) Electrical tape goo will mess up the paint if you catch any of it on the sandpaper during the polishing phase.  Be extra careful, otherwise you’ll get black smudges like i did on the Titleist 3w and the Callaway hybrid.

3) Take as much time as you can with the taping.  At no point do you want to have to free hand the edges with a blade.  Otherwise you’ll end up with scratches.  See, for example, the face of my 3w :(.

4) Don’t use too much paint on any one layer – you’ll end up with something that looks like the Callaway hybrid here.


1) Use the paint stripper (Mar-hyde brand Tal-Strip Paint remover) I used in the previous post: Quick Tip: New Life for Old Irons.  This stuff works great for getting the paint off the crown of the club too.  Rather than the labor of sanding, the paint will simply flake off 10 minutes after you spray it on.  WARNING – use proper eye, nose, face, and skin protection when using this substance.  I accidentally touched a glove that had some on it with my bare hand and it burned like crazy.  This method is MUCH easier than sanding.

2)  Be EXTREMELY careful during the sanding process around any edge and any place where paint meets tape.  These are the most likely areas for breakage.  If you’re particularly worried, don’t sand these areas until the paint cures after 4-5 days.

3)  JK recommends waiting 15 minutes between coats.  I waited 20 between coats on the driver and really like the results.  be your own judge, but don’t tack cloth the club until the paint is dry to the touch.  This is a mistake I made with the hybrid and the result was mediocre at best.

4)  If you have a lot of scuff marks on the face of your club, you can smooth them down, and in some cases get rid of them all together by giving them a good sanding with the 2000 grit sandpaper you have left over.  This really cleaned up the face of my SMT driver and the non-grooved parts of my 3w and hybrid.  See for yourself!

5) Raised symbols/alignment markers – I was worried about painting over the arrow/line that are on the crown of the Titleist 3w.  I wanted them to stand out even after the new paint job because I like to use them to line up shots.  In order to make sure they’d show up, I took a razer and carefully cleaned off all the layers of paint that had built up on them prior to applying the clear coat.  I later realized this was probably unnecessary due to the sanding process.  JK did not do this and his results turned out just fine.  I also recommend the use of a metal needle for really fine clean-up jobs.

All in all, I consider this attempt a good learning step toward the final product that I hope to achieve.  Consider the above pictures a decent first attempt, but a promise that better results can be achieved with a little practice.  Next up, I will see how long this paint job lasts and hopefully come up with another color that is more forgiving to try next time.  Like JK says about this kind of painting, there’s a certain comfort you can take in knowing that if you mess up, all you have to do is spray the paint remover on and start over again.

Happy Painting!

I just bought my own stamp set off of fleabay. I’m ready to personalize some golf clubs. I’d post a section about it, but someone has already set out the steps in very clear and concise detail. If you’d like to stamp/paint fill your own clubs, take a look at the link below.


Of course, I’ll be trying this ASAP, and–of course–there will be photos. Stay tuned, PF readers!

Updated 12/20/2010

Here is another link that includes some extra tips, etc.

Irons tend to lose their shine more quickly than any other club in the bag.  Those  with numbers stamped and painted on the sole tend to wear unevenly as well.  One technique I like to use to prevent irons from losing their beauty is simply removing all the paint fills from the club.  This takes very little time, and for about $7 (mar-hyde brand Tal-Strip Paint remover), can breath new life into your old forged irons.  All I do is use a spray on paint stripper (acetone never works for me, for some reason), and wait for it to do its thing.  NOTE, be sure to try a small amount of whatever solvent on a test area (or club you don’t use often) just to make sure it doesn’t take the finish off as well.  I haven’t ever tried this with a cast club, so proceed at your own risk.  See the pics below!

With paintfills:

without paintfills:

Paint stripper I used:

If you’re not a fan of the totally blank look, this is also the first step to doing your very own paintfills!  I’m considering experimenting with these guys during the upcoming days off…

Repainting a Club – Redux

December 6, 2010

Just wanted to post a few new pictures. The gallery below includes pictures of the club I painted first and the repainting of the 904f. With the 904f, I used electrical tape for the edges, which created a MUCH cleaner edge. See the photos below for a few good looks.

See the original post on repainting a club, here: https://thepowerfade.wordpress.com/2010/11/30/repainting-a-club/

Poll: New Paint Job

December 2, 2010

My metal woods have lost their original luster from months (or years in my hybrid’s case) of use and the occasional topped shot.  After reading JK’s post on repainting, I’ve decided to repaint all my metal woods the same color and am giving the PF community the choice of what color they will be forever more!  Go ahead and vote.  If you feel strongly, vote more than once!  I have also left the option open to choose your own color if you feel so compelled.  I will post before and after shots of all clubs and the process!  Happy Voting!